Thanks, Jon. Great presentation last night. Greg KO6TH Jon - KI6RT wrote:

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Attached is a very Basic NanoVNA how to... Jon KI6RT

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I finally got my howto article up for getting Rig Control (CAT) and Digital Modes working on my TS-440 via Linux: https://piratesinteepees.org/kenwood-ts-440-ic10/ Enjoy :)

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I took the negative lead of the radio directly to the vehicle frame. On older cars you can find the ground point near the battery (as in this bulletin). I've had one HF radio installation this way in

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Connecting the radio DC return lead directly the battery negative terminal could impair the operation of vehicle battery monitoring circuitry which in some cases uses the battery negative lead. The pa

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Good point on the Hall effect sensor in the negative lead—thanks. I'd never seen that before. Will pass along to my colleagues. - Jef

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Generally speaking, just run both wires (both fused) all the way to the battery and you'll be fine. - Jef N5JEF

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Many radios come with power cable with both leads fused. So just where do you connect the net (black) wire to ground? Close to radio chassis, Connect to body, connect to frame (if exists), close to an

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Big thanks for all the feedback by many including that of the Elmer Net. Made some tweaks to the “K9CCO 12v DC overkill project” by adding breakers with ignition protection (both prior to the Inverter

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The 12v power cord for this radio is obsolete and no longer available. So I sourced parts from various vendors and put the ribbons on it this morning. The 4 pin Molex connector has 0.93 round pins. T-

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Good to know! So I guess I'm ok with both +/- fused and straight to battery terminals. That is how they are all set up now. Radios sound good so probably shouldn't mess with it. Rob KM6YKX

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In my work we always run the positive and negative radio power cables straight to the battery. And we fuse _both_ wires. That avoids the problem shown in your diagram that can occur if the starter can

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There has been some vehicle install talk lately and everyone has ideas about grounding and bonding. Here is an article that might be useful...and this automotive install diagram. I've had no issues go

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It’s going through a rubber boot, through the firewall. It runs under the kick panel along it’s own path. I purchased a few of these caps (attached photo) to add to the ground wire bolt head to furthe

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Does the red (hot) wire go thru a interface boot or a hole cut in the metal body? if it is a boot, no problem. If you are going thru a metal cutout, put a large rubber grommet around the cable. you mi

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Appreciate the suggestion. I’m going to do that. Thanks.

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Hi Smitty, Yeah, that picture. I'm not worried about the ground lug per se. The worry is the vibration as you're driving around might let the red cable rub against the bolt, and chafe through its insu

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Hey Greg, thanks for the email and for jumping in to help, REALLY appreciate it. It’s pretty thick but not terrible tough. Is this the picture you’re commenting on? The red to the left is the + lead,

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Hi Smitty, How tough is the red jacket around that zero gauge wire? Looks like it's running next to something with an edge to it under the ground screw... Greg KO6TH Smitty wrote:

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Thanks Brian. I would've prefered going to the battery with the ground wire but as you can see, that gauge is no joke to work with. On paper (and in my mind), Zero gauge didn't seem quite so big. LOL.

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