FYI, to get a good match you should also feed it with a 1:1 balun. The balun can be made up of a length of coax, 26-1/2 inches braid-to-braid. Roll the coax into a coil and solder all the braids together. One end of the coil's center conductor should attach to the feedline center conductor, and connect to the driven element. The other end of the balun (center conductor) goes to the long element. In otherwords, the braid (ground) is not connected to the antenna. Slide the connection points up/down for a 1.1:1 match.
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--- In W6EK@..., "Bob - K6UDA" <whpmotorsports@...> wrote:
Mine is very simple. Made entirely from 1/2 inch copper tubing. Plans are readily available on the internet. Just type in copper J-pole plans into a search engine. The base of mine is made long (2 feet extra) and I've got it clamped to my chimmy with a metal strap and muffler clamps. I've used LMR400 feedline on mine because the 100 ft run created 12db loss using rg59.
For a copper j-pole, you'll need 6 ft of tube, 2 solder caps, 1 tee, 1 90 elbow. You'll also need a pl-259 connector and a hunk of conductor wire. minus the feedline, about $25 at home depot.
--- In W6EK@..., "Saundby" <saundby@> wrote:
Bob, I think you mentioned a 2m j-pole you use to me at the meeting. I wonder if you can tell me some more about it, like construction details, how you've got it hung up and how it's working for you.
I'm going to be trying again soon to get some 2m SSB out of here, too (with a quickie horizontal Yagi, I'm looking at the j-pole for FM), it turns out the feedline I used the first time had a kink in it where the center conductor pushed through the foam and into the shield, shorting it out. I'll be cutting it off at the kink, rechecking it, then putting a new connector on when time allows.